BROWS BROWS BROWS
BROWS BROWS BROWS
Everything you need to know about BROWS
The purpose of this page is to educate you & reassure you! Choosing your Permanent Cosmetic artist is not something that should be taken lightly. Some things to consider when choosing an artist:
These procedures fall under the Tattoo category of state regulations. Every Permanent Cosmetic artist MUST have a Tattoo License, Bloodborne Pathogens certificate, & undergo annual, spontaneous inspections. In addition to this, it’s important to have specialized training specifically in permanent cosmetics, different brows techniques, color theory, needle theory, cover-up’s/ corrections & neutralizing, & yearly training. Unfortunately, these subjects are not taught in a general certified course, these are specialized extended courses that responsible artists will pursue.
This page is divided into different parts
You can click on a category to skip to that section of the page:
Various Techniques
What are the different brow techniques?
Machine Nano-strokes Brow
Combination Brow
Ombre Brow
(I no longer offer Microblading)
Let’s start with:
Machine Nano-strokes, & why it’s replacing Microblading:
The aim of Machine Nano-strokes and Microblading is to craft the most natural-looking brows. This is achieved by etching hair-like strokes that emulate the individual's natural brow growth and distinct pattern. While both techniques strive to accomplish the “same” aesthetic, they employ fundamentally different methods and approaches. Machine Nano-strokes involves a more sophisticated technique, thus requiring a more prolonged period of training for perfect mastery. On the other hand, Microblading, although widely recognized, is gradually being eclipsed by the more intricate and skill-intensive Machine Nano-strokes.
I use the word “Machine” so that you know it is not a form of Microblading. For example, you may see Microblading marketed as “Nano Brows”, which is misleading. One technique uses a pen-like rotary machine, and the other uses a blade (hence the name “blading”).
Microblading is meticulously executed using a hand-held tool that has anywhere from 7 to 28 ultra-fine pins that line up in the form of a blade. The blade is used to slice the skin and embed pigment to create a hair-stroke design. Alternatively, Machine Nano-strokes are crafted with a precision rotary device that generally uses a single needle cartridge. The needle taps in and out of the skin to create soft pixels that draw the formation of a hair-stroke. This technique provides the most customization, allowing the artist to choose the proper needle gauge, needle count, needle configuration, needle taper, and voltage for each individual client and their unique skin characteristics. Not to mention, Machine Nano-strokes allow for the most creative, diverse brow designs that can appear more 3D. With this technique, the hair-strokes are able to overlap or intersect. Whereas, with Microblading, the bladed hair-strokes cannot overlap or else the points at which the hair-strokes meet will “blow out.” The Machine Nano-strokes procedure is superior in depositing pigment into the skin, consequently enhancing the durability and quality of the brow results. This provides you with the best long-term retention.
Due to the way Microblading deposits pigment into the skin, it tends to disperse over time, which can result in a blotchy appearance. To be considered an ideal candidate for Microblading, you should have dry skin, youthful skin texture, no health conditions, and meet additional specific requirements. In contrast, the Machine Nano-strokes procedure has wonderful retention for nearly all skin types. These hair-strokes maintain their fine and precise definition, ensuring lasting sharpness and clarity.
Please note that the Machine Nano-stroke procedure does take much longer than the other brow procedures. You can expect the appointment to last around 4 hours, and cost slightly more. This procedure will usually need an initial Color Boost session within the first 3 months, and then only once every 18-24 months after that.
If you are a client that has been Microbladed by me in the past, please do not worry, whenever you schedule for a Color Boost session we can either continue with Microblading or upgrade to a different service.
Moving on to the
Combination Brow:
A Combination Brow is also referred to as a Hybrid Brow! Both of these terms refer to a cross between 2 different techniques. In this case, it is the creation of hair-strokes AND shading combined! I always say with this procedure you get the best of both worlds! There are 2 main reasons why you may choose this technique:
You prefer more dimension on your brow, especially on the tail-ends where you may lack brow hair. If you are used to filling your brows in with makeup every single day then you will probably like this look the best! For example, if this describes you, & you were to get a Machine Nano-stroke Brow instead then you may find yourself still wanting more depth & fullness, and then go on to add pencil to the brows.
It is a good way to “compromise” on what is still a slightly more natural-look than a 100% shaded brow. For example, you want something as natural as possible but you have NO hair on your brow tails for a Nano-stroke procedure to blend into.
This procedure takes about 3 hours. I recommend an initial Color Boost around 3-6 months, and then once every 2-3 years.
Now let’s discuss the
Ombre Blush Brow:
The Ombre Blush Brow is a shading technique that creates a color gradient from dark to light. The brows are darker at the tail-ends, and then become very soft & airy in the fronts (hence “ombre”). It is a fuller, glamorous-look. The Ombre Blush Brow is a specific style among shaded brows. You may also hear shading referred to as a "powdered" brow. Shading and powder mean the same thing. The difference with the Ombre technique specifically is that it gets softer in the front so that you do not have harsh or "angry" looking brows.
Retention is usually excellent across the board for this procedure. There are 2 main reasons why you may choose this technique:
You score higher on the Fitzpatrick scale, have more melanin in your skin, have more of an oily skintype, or have any medical conditions (ie: autoimmune). If any of these apply to you, then this procedure will bring about the most optimal retention for your brows long-term!
You love the latest styles of fashion, and want an aesthetic or glamor brow!
This procedure takes about 3 hours. I recommend an initial Color Boost around 3-6 months, and then once every 2-3 years.
2. Procedure Process
Rest assured that the way I do these procedures are by breaking them down into steps to make certain that you feel absolutely confident before moving forward each step of the way. This procedure is not rushed. I cushion a lot of extra time beyond the “expected” procedure time, just in CASE! With this being said, please don’t come in a rush either, or have a pressing obligation immediately following the procedure.
Once you arrive to your appointment I will discuss with you what your overall brow goals are. You can also show me photos of how you usually fill them in, or inspirational photos. I will take some “before” photos, which I will then show you at the very end of your appointment so we can admire the transition together!
I will begin by cleansing your brows, & then spend about 30 minutes to 1 hour using a wax pencil to customize & create the perfect brow template that follows your natural brow structure & suits your facial features. I make sure to look at you from all perspectives - lying down, sitting up, & at different angles. I measure everything to make sure the brows are as symmetrical as possible. If you have any asymmetry (which the majority of us do) I will discuss it with you & walk you through my thoughts on how I plan to balance them out! Once I am completely satisfied with the drawing of your brows, I will show you and have you spill all of your own thoughts! This may be that you’d like them thicker, thinner, longer, shorter, more narrow, more flat, OR you absolutely love them and are ready to move forward beyond this step. Please find comfort in that I WANT you to share your thoughts! These brows are going on YOUR face so I want you to be as in love with them as I am! I will adjust the shape (within reason) until you feel FABULOUS!
I will then use a topical anesthetic to numb the brow area. While you numb, we will go over colors together (feel free to bring your brow pencil to show me), & we will also go over your Aftercare kit and what you should expect while you heal.
My supplies are single-use disposable to maintain the most sanitary environment for each client. My pigments are hypoallergenic & adhere to EU Reach Compliance (these European regulations are much more strict than the FDA). Tattoo pigments in the USA are not regulated; the FDA does not regulate them.
Once you’re numbed, I will begin tattooing! I usually do 3 passes per brow, & in between each pass I will re-numb the side that I am not working on. Many clients fall asleep, or even snore! If you have high sensitivity (ie: more sensitive at dental appts) please feel free to let me know, and I can extend your numbing time.
Before you know it, you have a FABULOUS set of new brows & your confidence has skyrocketed. You will be so excited to know that getting ready in the morning has now become TOO easy! The most common feedback I hear is that my client’s wish they would’ve just done it sooner!
This video shows the Pre-Draw done with a wax pencil.
3. Contraindications
You are not a candidate for this procedure if:
You are under 18 years old.
You are pregnant or breastfeeding.
must wait 3 months after, for both.
You have been on an antibiotic within 2 weeks of the procedure time.
You have had brow tinting or brow lamination done within 6 weeks of the procedure time.
You use Latisse or other hair growing serums on your brows.
Must not being using these products for a minimum of 12 weeks.
You have had surgery within 6 weeks of the procedure time.
Or you’ll be having surgery within 6 weeks following your brow procedure.
You’ve had an organ transplant.
must consult your doctor, and wait a minimum of 1 year.
must no longer be on anti-rejection medication.
You have used Accutane anytime within the past 12 months.
You have a heart condition, pacemaker, or defibrillator.
You have “keloid” scars (raised scarring).
You have an autoimmune disease and/or diabetes.
must consult your doctor, condition must be stable.
must choose a technique with shading, & must know retention isn’t as optimal.
Color Boosts will be needed sooner.
You have hemophilia.
You are undergoing chemo/radiation therapy.
must consult your doctor & have a permission note.
You are prescribed anticoagulant medication (blood thinners). This includes aspirin.
must consult your doctor, & must choose a technique with shading.
Color Boosts will be needed sooner.
Feeling sick, or have a viral infection
4. Preparation
Things you are encouraged to do:
Keep your skin moisturized (as normal) within the week leading up to the procedure.
Please use a gentle moisturizer, nothing with acids or anti-aging.
If you do not cleanse your face on a daily basis, please do so for the week leading up to the procedure. Please do not sleep in your makeup, it will effect the texture of your skin and the way the pigment implants.
Try to drink lots of water within the week leading up to the procedure (it makes a big difference for your skin).
Be sure to eat a meal before your appointment.
Things you should NOT do (in timeline order):
Do not consume coffee or alcohol within 24-48 hours of the procedure.
Do not work-out within 24 hours of your procedure.
Do not consume power shakes, power greens, Fish Oil, or “hair, skin, nail” supplements within 24 hours of your procedure.
Do not take Aspirin, Niacin, Vitamin E, or Ibuprofen within 24 hours of your procedure.
Do not have any form of hair removal/ hair grooming done on the brows within 1 week of the procedure.
Do not use skincare products with Vitamin A, Retinols, Tretinoin, Niacinamide, Resveratrol, AHA's (alpha-hydroxy acids), BHA's (beta-hydroxy acids), PHA's (polyhydroxy acids), HA's (hyaluronic acids), or Glycolic acids within 1 week of the procedure.
Do not tan within 2 weeks of the procedure. Absolutely no sunburn!
Cannot be on an antibiotic within 2 weeks of the procedure.
Do not have Botox done within 4 weeks of your procedure.
Do not have fillers done within 6 weeks of the procedure.
Do not have brow tinting or brow lamination done within 6 weeks of the procedure.
Cannot have had surgery within two 6 weeks of the procedure.
Do not use Latisse or any hair growing serum within 12 weeks of your procedure.
5. Aftercare & Healing
AFTER your brow procedure:
Avoid getting your brows wet in the shower.
Do NOT exfoliate, scratch, itch, or pick at the scabs while your brows heal. The scabbing will resolve itself.
Do NOT use any cleansing products containing acids (glycolic, lactic, AHA), anti-aging ingredients, acne treatments, or exfoliants for 10 days. I recommend using Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser to wash your face while your brows heal.
Use a fresh pillowcase while you sleep & avoid sleeping on your face for 10 days.
Avoid sweating, & heavy exercise for 10 days.
Avoid steamy showers, the sauna, & swimming for 10 days.
Avoid makeup & sunscreen directly on the brows for 10 days.
No facials, botox, chemical treatments, or microdermabrasion for 4 weeks.
Avoid direct sun exposure, or tanning for 4 weeks.
Aftercare Instructions:
You will receive an Aftercare Kit with everything you need to take care of your brows while healing. You will cleanse & moisturize your brows for 10 days, following the instructions provided during your appointment.
The healing phase is a PROCESS, but have faith!
Day 1: Your brows are beautiful, but vivid! They will soften 30-40% and shrink just slightly! The color may appear more “warm” due to skin irritation & redness. You can expect minimal swelling, depending on how sensitive your skin is.
Day 2-4: Your brows are much darker than Day 1! This is normal, don’t fret! The pigment has oxidized, & settled in. The color will appear more “cool.”
Day 4-10: You notice some flaking, but this is just your skin treating the area as a wound & healing itself. Do not pick at these flakes or you will cause loss of pigment and scar tissue. Let the brows flake on their own.
Day 10-28: Now the brows have become much lighter, after flaking away. This is known as the “ghosting” phase. Your skin will initially heal over the design. The pigment is there, it’s just underneath an extra layer of skin.
Week 4-6: This is when you will begin to notice the true results. The pigment begins to become more noticeable again.
Week 8: You are completely healed!
6. Color Boosts
Color Boosts are important to maintain the fresh & vivid color of your brows. The pigment used for permanent cosmetics is made to soften, & continue to fade over the years. If it was not made this way, or if “body-pigment” was used instead, then the brows would age with blue or red tones. Our facial skin is exposed to many more “elements” than other areas on our body (ie: environmental pollutants, sun rays, chemicals of skincare regimens, etc.).
Everyone differs on WHEN they will need a Color Boost. Your skin-type, lifestyle, & environmental factors will influence how soon you will need a Color Boost.
For a Combination Brow & Ombre Blush Brow,
I recommend the first Color Boost to be done around 4-6 months.
After that, I recommend a Color Boost once every 2-3 years (or longer).
The soonest you could do the very first Color Boost is after 8 weeks, HOWEVER, that is not usually necessary for my clients. It is important for your brows to soften before adding more & more color to them. Too much color too soon can cause them too look over saturated and “muddy.”
Client’s with certain health conditions (autoimmune diseases, hormonal conditions, etc.) will need a Color Boost slightly sooner than the average client.
For a Machine Nano-stroke Brow,
I require the first Color Boost to be done at 6-8 weeks.
After that, I recommend a Color Boost once every 18-24 months.
Here are some examples that will cause your brows to soften sooner:
oily skin
tanning or sunbathing
swimming in chlorine
anti-aging products
acne treatments
chemical peel treatments
microdermabrasion
autoimmune disease
hormonal imbalances
If you’re ever wondering whether your brows could use a Color Boost, or not, feel free to message me with a photo and I will let you know my thoughts!